Three years ago, E.J. Lagasse took over his father’s New Orleans flagship restaurant and made it an enchanting tasting-menu experience. The New York Times' chief restaurant critic Tejal Rao applauds the revival, writing "E.J. Lagasse has remade Emeril’s as an extravagance where jackets are recommended and dinner is a bouncy, often delicious, occasionally self-referential but utterly charming ride through the flavors of New Orleans."